28 December 2013

Right Lower Console - Part I


Been experimenting with building the "Left Lower Console" for the last few days. 

The reason I use the word 'experimenting' is because, till I started to 'cut' my panels, I was quite certain about the way I was going to build my panels. But, a related discussion with Wayne and Metro on "hornetpit" forums, have made me to review my plan. The complete discussion is at this thread (you will need to be logged in to view).

Anyways, what I have already achieved, is as per my original plan.






As per my original plan, the 5mm perspex sheet is intended to
overlay on the 5mm plywood base.
Theoretically, this planned looked nice, but, despite the overlay being a
close fit, the switches appear to embed about 1-2mm below surface
of the perspex overlay. I'm not very pleased with that.
The 'largish' hole is to accommodate a single pole four way rotary switch 

It was at this point, that the discussion referred in aforementioned thread started, and I temporarily stopped further work with my panels. 

Initially, I experimented with a 'laser printed' overlay printed on a transparency, placed on top of the 5mm perspex sheet and testing out backlight. Too much of light passed through the overlay.

I then printed an experimental panel on a normal A4 sized paper as so.


All my pictures are taken on my mobile, since that is most handy while I'm working. This picture was taken in relatively poor light, so apologies for the poor quality. I have cropped the picture to remove unwanted detail.
Having printed on a plain paper, I overlayed this panel print on top of the perspex and placed LED lighting underneath. It still did not provide the desired effect. Too much of green light was still passing through. I could actually see each of the individual LEDs placed underneath.

I then doubled the number of perspex sheets and tested again. 



The effect was now rather pleasing. I'm thinking, when I print out the panel overlay on a professional grade paper, with a professional printing studio, the 'blacks' are going to be darker, and will prevent the the light that is still bleeding through. Disregard the LEDs that are visible on the extra white part of the panel. They are outside the limits of the panel.

The aim is to light up the 'text' on the panel, and the effect on backlighting the text is rather nice.

Now, off to redesign the complete console layout again. 

19 December 2013

UFCP - Part One

Started to fabricate my UFCP today. 

Initially, I hadn't anticipated that this is going to eat up so much of my time. After a couple of hours, I was still taking measurements and designing the shape, and counters, or the outer box. 

Eventually, I gave up the idea to work with wood/sheet metal directly. I will first experiment with a cardboard outer box, cut to correct dimensions. It's best to learn lessons from any mistakes on cardboard, before I proceed with a permanent fixture. 

I can already anticipate that, there will need to be 'slight' changes compared to the shape of the 'real one'. When viewed from side, the real UFCP has a taper from top to bottom. Also, the touch screen is inclined slightly downwards. For my pit, due to the type of touch screen I'm fabricating, I'm thinking, I will have to tilt it slightly upwards, if not keep it perfectly vertical. Let's see how it goes.

All the items I need to fabricate the UFCP. 

18 December 2013

First Test

The last two days were busy in finishing up the major part of woodwork, including applying the second coat of paint to the superstructure of the pit.

I'm very happy that the major, labor intensive work of the pit is now behind me.

Started the day early today, to assemble the super structure and mate the flight-sim computer with the pit. There were a few areas of concern, but nothing that I couldn't take care of with a little work. 


Assembled Pit
The seat if more or less done now, with new upholstery.
Two mock ejector tubes on the side.
Two more mock drogue tubes are pending fitment.

Despite all the tests, and final measurements, the seated leg length is a tad short. Will need to figure out how to work around that. I've full movement of rudder pedals available to me. However, I'm only able to apply about 75% brakes.
 
Firing Up the Computer for the First Time
Had to play a bit with screen resolutions and screen positioning in the nVidia tuning applet. Had to retune my nVidia Surround resolution also.

Not very happy with the positioning of the sub-woofer.
Will need to find another place for it.

The Triple-Monitor setup is about 4" too high. Need to bring it down a bit.

The 19" monitor on the side, looked okay till now. Till I didn't have a pit. Now, it's an eyesore. Will have to design a contraption, so that I'm able to position it above the Triple Monitor setup. But, that can wait for the time being.
There is other stuff to take care of first.


Firing up the Flight Simulator
Firing up the Flight Simulator.

Even with four displays undocked, and a pretty heavy scenery, the FPS (atleast on ground) is pretty steady between 25 - 35. The FPS is locked at 35 on my rig.

The 'Panel Positioner' needed a little tweaking also.
It worked like a charm in further tests.


The First Ride!!
Ha ha. She deserves the first ride, even if she has no clue how to start it up :)

Some of the pit dimensions didn't turn out how I had planned. But, it's looking good the way it is setup right now. All the labour intensive work is now done, hopefully. 

Now comes the 'interfacing' part. 

Over the coming weeks, I will be working on adding switches to the Left/Right consoles, Left/Right Side Panels (including Gear/Hook levers), fabricating a UFCP (don't like that big blank space between the L/R DDI's). In a departure from the real deal, I'm planning a touch screen for the MPCD also. Let's see how that pans out. Then, there is HUD brackets along with AoA indicator. The output annunciators will come last. 

And, there is getting all the cables routed nicely, add an instrument panel shield. Phew!!! And, I thought this was going to be a piece of cake.

15 December 2013

Sidewall Height Issue

Few friends, through PM/Chat have queried me, if the 'sidewalls of the pit aren't a shade too high'.

I thought I had checked the height out, before putting the blade to wood, but having more than one person raise this query, put me in a little doubt.

The base of the console's is 1 feet (12") from floor and top of the sidewall is 2.4 feet (30") from floor level. When seated on teh mock ejection seat of the pit, my shoulders jut out about 7" above the sidewalls. 

I had based my decision on sidewall height, based on a few pictures I had seen online (since I didn't have the precise dimensions with me).

So, it looks correct, when viewed from this perspective....

Or, this perspective...

But, NOT from this perspective...

I think, the open canopy in last picture takes away a few more inches from the sidewall height.....bummer.

I think I will complete the first version of the pit, and see how it goes.

Increasing the height would have posed a problem. Reducing it will only add a little more work.

Images courtesy of following webpages-

Image 1-  http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:US_Navy_050907-N-9277A-001_A_pilot_assigned_to_Air_Test_and_Evaluation_Squadron_Nine_(VX-9),_looks_out_the_canopy_of_his_F-A-18F_Super_Hornet_.jpg

Image 2-  http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:US_Navy_050407-N-0347W-002_An_F-A-18F_Super_Hornet_pilot,_assigned_to_the_Black_Knights_of_Strike_Fighter_Squadron_One_Five_Four_(VFA-154),_waits_with_Old_Glory_for_his_turn_to_be_launched_off_the_flight_deck_aboard_USS_Carl_Vi.jpg


Image 3-  http://ibnlive.in.com/photogallery/3323-2.html

Sanding and Primer Coat

Finishing up the instrument panel facade and HUD bracket.




Daughter helping me out with application of wood primer
Wifey helping me out with painting the 'Ejector Tubes' of the Ejection Seat :)

End of the Day
Application of first coat of paint is complete. 
Need to let the paint dry for atleast a day, before I apply another coat. 

Will spend tomorrow, getting all my panel overlays sized up correctly in PhotoShop. 

Can't thank my family enough, for letting me carry on with my 'crazy' ideas and for even supporting me through it.

14 December 2013

Superstructure is ready

The basic superstructure of the pit is now ready.

This picture is just to show the location of the 'Stick Box'.
Plan for tomorrow. Sand the remaining parts and apply atleast one coat of primer on all of them. 

Then start to work on making the facade for front instrument panel and the HUD.

13 December 2013

Side Boards

Making the side boards to accommodate the Left & Right Consoles....
Measuring, Cutting, Reinforcing & Experimenting
The "Window" is designed to provide space for a "Inspection Panel" for working under the Console. The Top Centre horizontal stiffener was a last minute decision. It is necessary to support the inspection panel door. The Bottom Centre stiffener will support the Left Console on one side. The 'Wall' was't planned originally, but was added as an after thought, as I got working.
Taking Shape
Thanks to 'Uchi' who had provided an interesting 'lesson learnt' to cater for additional space to accommodate the HOTAS Warthog Throttle Assembly. I made sure that the whole of left console assembly was designed around the throttle assembly. 
The structure of Right Console is also ready (Visible in top right corner of picture).
Started work on making the front sloping shape of the consoles.
Was feeling a little lazy after lunch, so took the time to coat the Left Console with initial coat of wood primer.
The "Stick" Box
Having looked at the way others have gone around with mounting the HOTAS Stick, I decided on a slightly different method. I was a little tired to take detailed construction pictures, but the vertical box just 'sits' on the horizontal support platform on a reinforcing bulwark inside. I will just screw the outer box to the inner bulwark tomorrow. This arrangement will enable me to be able to dismantle this arrangement for quick shipping (which is/was one of the original design criteria for my pit).
Stick Mount
Dismantled the metal base plate from my Warthog stick, and mounted it on the 0.5" wooden base plate, which in turn will bolt onto the 'Stick Box'. I thought, I had it all figured out while making my purchases. But, during assembly, the stick mounting screws came out a tad longer than I had anticipated. It was late at night, and I didn't have patience to wait another day to purchase replacement screws. So, improvised "washers" with pieces cut from 6mm thick plywood. Even I'm surprised how well this has turned out.

09 December 2013

Pit Tub Build Commences

It's been a long time since I have been collecting parts, and generally preparing to start my pit build. 

Starting today, I have finally called out 'Commencing'!

I had already printed out cockpit drawings from the layout that Wood had sent to me, almost an year back. But, now that I had started to work, I realised that those drawings related to the F/A18-A version, and I had needed drawings for the "E" version. 

So, printed out the drawings from NATOPS document and pasted the A4 sheets to make one large cut-out.

406% Expanded Printout of Cockpit Layout from NATOPS Manual 
Mock Layout of Left/Right Consoles with Cardboard
The Raw Material
The Raw Material - (Continued)
Get set and Go....


Ejection Seat Side Boards

Bottom Chasis of Ejection Seat
Have built my Ejection Seat around a used car seat.
Advantage - I get to move my seat front/back based on need
The Front Frame
A triple monitor stand will come on top.
A 24" monitor will be mounted on front.
The Rudder Pedals will come underneath.
The Computer will be placed behind the frame.


Testing how it all comes together.
I am thinking, it should work?
My dog wanted to be the first to 'Pilot'.
I'll be damned if I let him!
Am pleased with the progress I was able to make between yesterday and today. 

Bit stuck up due certain commitments for next two days. Will recommence in two days from now. Hoping to get the basic woodwork (including primer/painting) done by Weekend. Will start with wiring up the panels next week. 



20 October 2013

Twerpy Rotary Knobs

It's been a while, since I documented any progress here. 

Reasons are many.....had to go through shifting my home and family due to work.....waiting and testing the new release of TacPac....and so on.

Ever since I had started this project, I had known that getting the correct (shape, size and color) rotary knobs is going to be a problem. 

Right Console Panel of VRS F/A-18E Rhino
I knew I will have to address this issue with 'Hook' and 'Landing Gear' control lever's also. Shapes of certain other switches (landing light switch, jettison knobs e.t.c) are also different from the switches I have managed to purchase commercially. 

I could purchase these switches internationally, but decided to consider that as an option, only if nothing else worked out.

Over the past few months, I had considered learning how to mold plastic at home. After a lot of reading, I finally decided to try and carve myself some switches out of wood and experiment how that pans out. Will take a final call, after completing my experiments.

Over the last couple of weeks, purchased myself wood carving knife chisel set and a diamond needle files set for carving out some wood. Both the tools were purchased off ebay.
Wood Workers Tool Knife Chisel 12 Pc Set

Diamond Needle File Set

With the tools in place, I experimented with my first rotary knob. I chose a sample which was neither too easy, nor too hard.
The Rough Stock

The First Cut (is actually the deepest)

Piece is shaping up now

Filing the "Piece"

Almost Done
Painted and Finished

How it compares

It was a good weekend. Finally made (a little) progress.

The knob has come out quite okay, though it's still not finished to the way I would like to accomplish. But, this is the first time I have touched wood and tools to work on wood. For a first time attempt, I'm smiling :)

As I find some more time, I will practice with a few more pieces. 

The texture, weight and feel of wooden rotary knobs is just about right. They take a long time carving, but it's turning out to be very cheap product to make.